Antique ‘En Tremblent’ Gold Brooch

Richard Ogden Gold Bird Brooch En Tremblent with turquoise and rubies

At Richard Ogden Gold Bird Brooch ‘En Tremblent’ with turquoise stones and rubies

Oh I just had to share this brooch with you fine folks, as it is just such a sweet and beautifully made piece of jewellery, circa 1880, so a late Victorian piece.  The style is referred to as En Tremblent, which obviously is French and means to tremble.  The name comes from the gemstones and sections of the piece being set so that they have some beautiful movement to them.  As an example, in this brooch the bird is set on a gold spring, which makes it tremble when it is moved around.  The ruby in its beak is only fastened with a small bit of gold, so it gives an extra dimension of movement to the piece.  It is so well made, which was also pointed out by one of the most skilled antique style jewellery craftsmen that I know here in London – he if anyone would know what quality when it comes to antique pieces!

Richard Ogden Gold Bird Brooch En Tremblent with turquoise and rubies

The back of the brooch, which is just about as beautiful as the front!

They started creating en tremblent jewellery in the late 18th century, as the movement of the gemstones so cleverly caught the light and attracted the eye.  They would mainly create floral sprays with the main flower en tremblent, to make it look like it was swaying in the wind.  We already know that these old cut diamonds were especially stunning in candle light, as the light would be reflected across the room in the most soft and romantic manner.

Richard Ogden Gold Bird Brooch En Tremblent with turquoise and rubies

Richard Ogden Gold Bird Brooch En Tremblent with turquoise and rubies

So how would you style it, since brooches are making such a wonderful comeback?

Victorian Bee Jewellery

Wohoo it is busy times in the shop at the moment!  The Christmas flurry has definitely set in and it is such fun to meet all these lovely clients that come by looking for gifts for their loved ones.

Victorian Bug Jewellery from Richard Ogden Jewellery

Butterflies and dragonflies from Richard Ogden

Today I was showing a lady some bee brooches – she referred to herself as a “purist” as she was a collector and wouldn’t consider any bees that were not of tiptop design, with all the correct details – number of wings, placement of stripes etc.

Now as I sat there by my desk, looking at the designs, I realised how much I actually love little bee jewellery – something I never would have even dreamed of before!  However, now that I have been exposed to some really stunning designs by the clever Victorian craftsmen, I just can’t seem to get enough of them!  Below is one of my favourite brooches in the shop at the moment:

Emerald and diamond bee brooch from Richard Ogden

The cutest little emerald and diamond bee brooch from Richard Ogden

For the Victorians nature was the new inn thing; bugs like butterflies, dragonflies and bees were symbolic of the transforming effect of love and all around people just couldn’t get enough of romance and nature.  Romantic poets like Wordsworth centered their works around the beauty of their surroundings and in late Victorian pieces you can see how this echoes on, with extraordinary craftsmanship that makes these little bugs look ever so lifelike!

Ruby and diamond bee from Richard Ogden

Ruby and diamond bee from Richard Ogden

So there we are, my love for bee jewellery all exposed to the world – oh and I am so pleased that brooches are making a comeback, because now we can wear these sweet little things on our lapels and they make up the best conversation pieces!  This is true – I finally meet people who are asking for brooches, and you guys might remember the push we did here on Decades of Elegance last year to revive brooches?  Well it worked wonders, so I hope you are digging out your favourite brooches for the Christmas celebrations!

Here are a few posts from last February – if you scroll past the first few you will start seeing all the stunning brooches that we looked at back then:  Decades of Elegance February 2015.

Burlington Arcade – then and now

Burlington Arcade, Mayfair, London

                      Burlington Arcade with its beautiful new floors – we are huge fans!

Hello my dearest one, you might have wondered why there have been so few new blog posts lately and I can only blame it on the bane of my misery: IT.  But things should be up and running now so that we can get back to our beloved antique jewellery!

It has been a few really fun weeks in the antique shop; we have had some beautiful pieces come through the door and we are now in the middle of putting together the Christmas Catalogue! (I know right, in August!?)!  But it is all great fun and I am learning TONS, and obviously passing on the most interesting information to you fine folks!

Necklace clasps and old Burlington Arcade postcard

      A few diamond set clasps for necklaces that I was showing a client – on top of an old                                                Burlington Arcade postcard

Yesterday three photographs of the Burlington Arcade at the beginning of the 19th century popped up on my desk.  We have looked at the history of the Arcade before, in the blog post the Burlington Arcade in London, but there are a few more fun pieces of information left to learn:

Burlington Arcade, 19th century, antique London photos at Richard Ogden

               Antique photographs featuring the Burlington Arcade – at Richard Ogden

In the top photo you can see one of the Beadles (the gentlemen guarding the Arcade) addressing a man with an umbrella, as you are not allowed to carry open umbrellas in the Arcade.  Legend has it that even after the bombings in the 1940s destroyed the roof of the Arcade the Beadles would enforce the no-umbrella law – that is how seriously they take their duties!

Burlington Arcade, Mayfair, London

                       The new floors of the Burlington Arcade, as modelled by Fluffy

And you might not know this, but whistling is not allowed in the Arcade either, and there is quite a shocking reason to this: during the 1800s the first floors in the Arcade were used by “working ladies”, and every time that the police approached the Arcade someone would whistle to warn these ladies – and the men who were with them – so that they could make a quick escape!  So whenever someone walks down the Arcade whistling, they get a kind reminder from the Beadles that it is not allowed.  I do in fact hear quite a few people every week trying to whistle a little tune in the arcade, and it is a shame in a way that you are not allowed to, as the acoustics are so great now that we have the beautiful new floors there!

Then and Now - the Burlington Arcade Entrance

                             Then and Now – the entrance of the Burlington Arcade

And in the bottom postcard we have a view of the entrance to the Arcade before it was redesigned in the 30s.  I had a lot of fun putting together the two photos above, as they really highlight how much has changed in these past 100 years – just look at people’s outfits!  Not to mention all the vehicles blocking the way for my perfect photo!!

I would love to hear which one of the two designs you prefer – and also whether you have visited the Arcade and maybe have some special memories from there?  For example seeing a pair of glorious earrings, or maybe shopping for an engagement ring?

The Wallace Collection in London

Hello dearest, I hope that your summer has been just wonderful so far!  I thought that I would share with you today my trip to The Wallace Collection, as it was just such a wonderful experience!  I went there with a friend of mine and we took a whole afternoon to wander through the different rooms and we also had afternoon tea in their glorious courtyard restaurant.  The collection is the perfect sneak peek inte the life of London’s high society some hundred years ago, so come along, let’s check it out:

The Wallace Collection Paintings

One of my favourite rooms at the Wallace Collection – I just love the combination of the wallpaper and the gold frames and gold furniture

You will find the Wallace Collection just behind Selfridges, and as you enter the building you leave all modern day things behind and become surrounded by furniture, armour, porcelain, objects d’art and paintings from the 15th to the 19th century.  There is a great emphasis on French 18th century furniture, with over five hundred pieces, so it almost feels like stepping into the private home of Marie Antoinette!

The Wallace Collection

One of the beautiful rooms at the Wallace Collection

The Wallace Collection is the result of five generations collecting souvenirs from around the world for over a century, and it includes pieces like Rembrandt’s Good Samaritan; six paintings by Canaletto, who was considered one of the finest landscape painter of his time; and a gold dagger believed to have belonged to Shah Jahan, the Mughal emperor famous for having erected the Taj Mahal.

The collection was built by the First, Second, Third and Fourth Marquesses of Hertford and when the Fourth Marquess’s illegitimate son Richard Wallace inherited the collection in 1870, he bought Hertford House.  When he then died in 1890, he left everything to his wife Julie-Amélie-Charlotte Castelnau, who in turn left the Wallace Collection to the nation.  It opened as a museum in 1900.  

Madame de Pompadour by François Boucher, 1759 at the Wallace Collection

A painting of Madame de Pompadour by François Boucher in 1759

The Souvenir by Jean-Honoré Fragonard at The Wallace Collection

The Souvenir by Jean-Honoré Fragonard at The Wallace Collection. Rousseau’s heroine, Julie carves the initial of her lover on the bark of a tree, while observed by her pet spaniel, the symbol of her fidelity.

There are spectacular paintings on display and so much to learn!  For example, I found out that a dog in a paintings is a symbol of fidelity, so when the high society ladies had their portraits painted – almost like a modern day contact ad – they would often incorporate a dog in the picture to show that they possessed this trait.  I personally would have loved to see more jewellery from the family, but I suppose that has gone somewhere else – there are however a few pieces on display well worth looking at: adorned with rubies, sapphires and other beautiful gemstones.

The Wallace Collection Paintings

More of the paintings, again, with a glorious wallpaper as the backdrop

The Wallace Collection

Oh how much I loved this room!  I know that one cannot decorate a regular home like this, but I might still try…!!!

Armoury at the Wallace Collection

Oriental and European Arms and Armour at the Wallace Collection

There is also something for the tough guys here, as you will find European and Oriental arms and armour collections with almost 2500 pieces on display.  The horse outfit above I can assure you is rather intimidating when viewed from close, as it is massive!

And when you visit, do make sure that you have lunch or afternoon tea in the stunning courtyard: it is covered by a tall glass roof, so you get all the sunlight, yet you can still eat outside even if it pours down with rain – not to mention what it would be like to sit there, under the stars, on a Friday or Saturday evening and enjoy their famous French cuisine.

The Wallace Collection

The Wallace Collection

And please do share your experience with us here, as we would love to hear all about it!

This past week at Richard Ogden

Hello sweetheart!  So I love looking through the photos on my phone and seeing what lovely jewellery has crossed my path in the past week, and today is no exception!  We will start with this beautiful turquoise, pearl and gold necklace from the 1880/90s that one of our dealers showed me the other day:

Gold, pearl and turquoise necklace ca 1880/1890s

Stunning necklace ca 1880/1890s

 

Gold, pearl and turquoise necklace ca 1880/1890s

Gold, pearl and turquoise necklace ca 1880/1890s – sorry about the shaky picture, I must have been so overwhelmed by the beautiful design that I just couldn’t keep my hand steady! 

It is a typical English design with a nature motif, which was so very popular toward to the turn of the last century, which is when this necklace is from.  I had a chat to one of the dealers about whether it was an Art Nouveau piece or not, and he didn’t think so as it doesn’t quite carry the specific design of Art Nouveau, but he did say that there are some very pretty scroll work in the piece.

I obviously adore it especially because my grandmother loves the combination of gold and turquoise – and with the pearls it just becomes so delicate and romantic.  I would love to wear it with a nice and light summer dress, oh and speaking of which: I can’t WAIT for summer to come around, I am sure you feel the same way!!!

And I spent this morning looking through our stock from the BADA fair and got stuck dreaming away on these chunky gold bracelets from Harvey & Gore.  They have some pretty exquisite jewellery, so if you are ever walking down the Burlington Arcade, do take a look in our windows, and you will see the Harvey & Gore collection in our last window down towards Piccadilly.  Everything is obviously beautiful, but these guys have some exquisite period pieces that are so much fun to look at!

So there we are dearest, I should be back again on Tuesday next week, as I am bit tied up on Monday.  I hope that you have a wonderful weekend and I can’t wait to bring you some more beautiful pieces next week!

A Travelling Tiara from the 1830s

Antique 18th century tiara at Richard Ogden

Early 19th century tiara at Richard Ogden

This is a ca 200 year old tiara that I found while rummaging through in the secret cabinet at Richard Ogden.  Robert Ogden told me the story behind it and also why it is referred to as a “Travelling Tiara”:

Antique 18th century tiara at Richard Ogden

Antique 19th century tiara at Richard Ogden

The wealthy ladies in the 18th and 19th century didn’t want to bring their diamond-set jewellery along on long horse drawn carriage-journeys, so they had the workshops design identical pieces in paste (glass) that they could safely carry along on their travels.  This tiara is a wonderful piece of history, which has stayed in such great condition, despite having almost 200 years on its shoulders:

Travelling Tiara ca 1830s at Richard Ogden in the Burlington Arcade

Travelling Tiara ca 1830s at Richard Ogden in the Burlington Arcade

In the 1700s Bohemian glassmakers’ designs were the most sought after in Europe, and they had just surpassed the once unrivalled Venetian glassmakers in skill and design.  Their designs were like works pieces of art, mirroring precious stones so perfectly (1) and it became common practice for all the great jewellers to sell paste jewellery alongside their precious pieces.  Even royalty – for example Elizabeth I, Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Anne, the wife of James I, the first Duchess of Marlborough and Henri IV of France – owned paste jewellery (2).

In 1869 the following statement could be found in Queen magazine:

“If the profession or career of the husband requires that his wife should go much into society on a small income, she would be perfectly justified in wearing imitations to save money… it cannot be wrong for a lady who cannot afford and has not inherited them to wear a moderate amount of paste.”  

The article added that she should not give the impression that her “jewels” were of any value.

Antique 18th century tiara at Richard Ogden

Antique 19th century tiara at Richard Ogden

The designs were very clever, which we can see in this little beauty: it can be taken apart and turned into a brooch and a smaller tiara/headpiece.  You can see the mechanism at the back in the photos above and below here:

Antique 18th century tiara at Richard Ogden

The tiara comes apart and splits into various other pieces

Antique 18th century tiara at Richard Ogden

it can be worn as a lovely brooch… 

Antique 18th century tiara at Richard Ogden

and as a smaller tiara!  A girl can never have too many tiaras, right?

Eventually, in the mid-2oth century costume jewellery was made popular on its own, by various designers, and high as well as low priced brands would become renowned names in costume jewellery; Crown Trifari, Dior, Chanel, Miriam Haskell and Monet.  I am pleased to say that we have had the pleasure of encountering designs from quite a few of these previously on the blog!

Sources:

(1) The Legend of Bohemian Glass: A Thousand Years of Glassmaking in the Heart,
by Antonín Langhamer

(2) How to spend it – the real appeal of paste jewellery